Culinary Sagacity

~Thought for Food~

The Cathayans believed that the soul or mind is located not in the head but in the stomach.

Doubtless this explains why they fret so much about the preparation and serving of food.

It may also explain why their memories are so much better than ours.

Information is stored not in the finite head, but in the expandable stomach.

--Cyrus Spitama in Gore Vidal's Creation



Saturday, March 13, 2010

Breast Milk Cheese?

I just couldn't resist commenting on the breast milk cheese that Chef Daniel Angerer of Klee Brasserie is making from his lactating wife, Lori Mason. While many reports claimed that Chef Angerer is "serving up" his wife's breast milk cheese to customers of Klee Brasserie, this just isn't true, he is not offering breast milk cheese on the menu. Chef Angerer is offering guests at his home a taste of human cheese, and evidently many members of the press too.

On his blog, Chef Angerer actually gives his recipe for "Mommy's Milk Cheese," where one reader shares that they've made breast milk key lime pie. What I found most incredible about his blog entry was the fact that so many people were saying what a great idea this is.

Now I'm open-minded when it comes to food. I've eaten things that make most people cringe, brains, guts, feet, stomach, sperm, and even testicles, but never the human variety.  While some people may say "milk is milk," I'd respond that "meat is meat," but that doesn't mean I have any cravings for a human rib roast.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

4th Annual StarChefs' International Chef's Congress Lights Up NYC



Having wrapped up its forth year and still going strong, the International Chef's Congress, organized by StarChefs.com and held every September, is still the premier food event in America.

I've attended three of the past four Chef's Congresses, and the only disappointing thing was that I didn't attend all four.  With guests spanning the culinary elite from countries the world over, the roster of Chef's Congress speakers and demonstrators reads like a list of angels—and even some deities—from food heaven:  Pierre Hermé, Albert Adria, Frédéric Bau, Ken Oringer, José Andrés, Eric Ripert, Daniel Boulud, Marcus Samuelsson, Masaharu Morimoto, Wylie Dufresne, Oriol Balaguer, Joël Robuchon, Gualtiero Marchesi, Dan Barber, Elena and Juan Mari Arzak, Elizabeth Falkner, Charlie Trotter, Pierre Gagnier, Grant Achatz, Paco Torreblanca, Pichet Ong, Albert Trummer....

The Congress, a three day event, not only highlights the talents and trends in the universe of food, it brings together seasoned professionals with budding up-and-comers for an exciting exchange of knowledge, experiences and ideas .  Young chefs leave the event inspired, energized, and rearing to rise up in the food world and make a name for themselves with their own culinary creations.

At the fourth annual Congress I had the great good fortune of meeting founder Antoinette Bruno and spending a day watching her in action.  A veritable force of energy on two legs, without Antoinette this event wouldn't go off nearly as well as it does, year after year.  Of course every event of such a large scale has blips, but Bruno trouble-shoots in real time, juggling Blackberry messages, walkie-talkie communications among staffers, and the schedules of her star chefs, all while maintaining an air of sheer joy at watching her event unfold—like a kid who started her own candy shop.  As if that weren't enough, Bruno is also a talented self-taught photographer whose images of food and chefs grace the pages of the Congresses' glorious program book.


Antoinette Bruno w/ Juan Mari Arzak

With more hands-on workshops, demonstrations and tastings than I can cover here, I'd just like to share some photos (well, quite a lot of photos actually) of my personal favorites from this year's Congress:  Masaharu Morimoto, Jose Andrés, Juan Mari Arzak, Paco Torreblanca, Marcus Samuelsson, Rohini Dey and Maneet Chauhan.

Masaharu Morimoto (on Fish, of course), Iron Chef



The Highly Animated Jose Andres of Mini Bar, Washington DC



Owner Rohini Dey and Executive Chef Maneet Chauhan, At Vermilion

 

Hands-on Workshop w/ Chef Marcus Samuelsson, Aquavit



Pastry Chef Extraordinaire Paco Torreblanca

 
  
  
  


Last, but certainly not least, Juan Mari Arzak!



  
 


Thursday, January 21, 2010

Friends at the Fore

A quick shout out to Damien Herrgott, Executive Pastry Chef at the soon-to-open Bosie Tea Parlor in NYC. Time Out New York announced the opening, in which they said: "To go with the teas are sweets like macarons from pastry chef Damien Herrgott, who’s logged hours at Paris’s famed Pierre Hermé, and as executive pastry chef at Bouley Bakery. Quick correction to TONY, Damien Herrgott didn't just "log hours" at Pierre Hermé, he was hired at the young age of 23 to be the Chef for the opening of Hermé's first store in Paris. He remained with Hermé for four years, and also headed up the opening of his second Paris location.

Another bow to Cesar Ramirez, Executive Chef at Brooklyn Fare Kitchen, for the rave review he got on The Q, GQ Magazine's blog. Congratulations, Cesar! We knew you'd be a hit from the first time we ate there, and from the glorious birthday dinner you made for me and my friends. Kudos, you deserve it!

Friday, December 11, 2009

On Sick Leave!


Dear Readers- 
Unfortunately I have been on an extended leave from work due to illness.  I wish all of you a Happy Holiday season, and hope to be back to work, posting articles, ASAP!

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Right Wing Ice Cream?


If you thought Ben and Jerry's was the only ice cream dipped in politics, think again. Turns out there's a conservative ice cream company that touts itself as the counter weight to Ben & Jerry's.

Star Spangled Ice Cream Company is the name, and like Ben & Jerry's, they donate a percentage of their profits to charitable organizations, in this case, those that support members of the military and their families.

This, of course, is a good cause—supporting members of the military, that is. However, it's interesting to note that the first contribution made by Star Spangled Ice Cream was to the Freedom Alliance Scholarship Fund, founded by none other than Oliver North of Iran Contra infamy (though my guess is he can't recall why he started his organization, or that Star Spangled Ice Cream ever gave him any money).

What amuses me most about this little ice cream company are the names they give to their flavors. Iraqi Road, Navy BattleChip, Smaller GovernMint, Fightin' Marine Tough Cookies & Cream, G.I. Love Chocolate, and my absolute favorites, GUN NUT, Nutty Environmentalist, and I Hate the French Vanilla. Discontinued flavors and flavors in development have names like Cherry Falwell, Choc & Awe, and Donald RumRaisin.

Of course Ben & Jerry's has some amusing hippie names like Cherry Garcia and Magic Brownies, but they don't go nearly as far as Star Spangled Ice Cream.

This is unfortunate, it would be most amusing to buy Ben & Jerry's if only it had names like Public Option Heath Bar, Clinton Surplus Sorbet, Peachy Pelosi, California Liberal Lemon, Rocky Road to Iraqi Victory, Save the EnvironMINT, Legalize It Dutch Coffee House, Tolerance Toffee, Religious NUT, Equal Pay Fudge Sunday, Truly Hip Chocolate Chip, Big Tent Berry Medley, Al Gore's Internet Cookies & Cream, Racial EqualiTEA, or Go Green Tea . And, how about I Love the French Vanilla?

Hmmm, maybe I should start a liberal ice cream company? I'd better trademark those names, pronto!